Eric Ewing – Maker

It’s always fun to find a new maker who can bring his own personal touch and vision to buckskinning, longhunter, or blackpowder gear.      Everyone needs a shooting pouch, but not every shooting pouch is a legitimate work of art.

Eric Ewing is a master craftsman who specializes in hunting pouches, shooting bags, and the like – and his work is truly something to behold.

I was first introduced to Eric’s work via his cool Instagram page and was immediately draw to his unique style.  I’ve always been envious of makers and craftsmen who are able to blend together different disparate elements – materials, colors, etc – into one cohesive style.   Eric really has an amazing eye for materials and his work is fantastic.

Here’s a description from his website:

Functional, historically-styled folk art bags and accoutrements, hand-crafted by maker Eric Ewing

All items are hand-made using a diverse mix of natural and reclaimed media, including bark-tanned leather, repurposed textile remnants, and antique hardware.

All animal hides are ethically sourced from hunters and tanned in small batches; some are procured from smaller, family-owned commercial tanneries; and others are repurposed and/or acquired from private collections found in storage. The metalwork and other embellishments are either reclaimed antiques or newly made by blacksmiths and other talented artists.

Here are a few sample’s of Eric’s work.

Pouches

Eric Ewing Pouches

Bags/Shot Pouches

Ewing Shooting PouchEwing Shooting Pouch

Eric can be contacted via his website at https://www.ericewingmaker.com/

He also has an excellent Instagram account that can be seen at https://www.instagram.com/forest_and_fowl/

See you on down the trail!

– Many Rifles

Prime Plunder For Sale

George Baseke has reached out to me about some plunder he’s looking to sell.     Some of you probably remember George from around the campfire at TAB events in the past.    Unfortunately, health reasons are preventing George from coming to rendezvous, so he wanted me to list some of this excellent plunder.

Here’s a few sketches of the goods and prices:

#1 Forged blade, antler guard $80.00

#2 Sharp hammered blade $85.00

#3 Sharp used Colonial style knife $85.00

#4 Sharp hand forged Colonial style $95.00

#5 Solid hickory handle pined on pipe bowl head. $250.00

 

#9 Red Fox cap with beaded bill and feathers. $150.00

#10 Beaver hat with bill and side rosette. $85.00

 

#11 Old brain tanned Lakota medicine bag >$85.00

#12 Antique Rainbow Goddess necklace, buffalos horn claws! <$150.00

 

#13 1780 Austria Talon coin (pure silver} $ 125.00

Please do reach out to George, if you’re interested.

He can be reached at pioneer.george37 ‘at’ gmail.com

Thoughts on The Revenant – The Book

It’s a cheap cliché to say that the book is always better than the movie.

With few exceptions (notably The Count of Monte Cristo, The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy, Peter Jackson’s The Lord of the Rings trilogy, and The Watchmen), most movies are lackluster adaptions of the books.    Of course this has to do with the way your mind imagines characters and scenarios in the book.   Often you’ll have a different idea for how someone would look or be, and the vision of the director is jarring enough to make it not work.

Or the screenwriter/direction misses a favorite scene.

Or leaves out a favorite character.

Or in the case of Michael Punke’s The Revenant – A Novel of Revenge . . . maybe they never actually read the book?

Admittedly, I was so put off by the beautifully filmed but ridiculously plotted movie that I decided to skip the book for a long time.   I recently finished the book and was – without hyperbole – blown away.

In a life dominated by four kids, a burgeoning farmstead, and a demanding job, I managed to read the book in 5 days – no small feat – and one I haven’t been able to accomplish since my hazy pre-kid days.

With no silly half-Indian kid subplot, the book was based purely on the concept of Hugh Glass wanting revenge on the two people in his crew that took his rifle and gear and left him for dead after being mauled by a bear.    The book is filled with ample historical details and musings about the day-to-day activities of keeping yourself alive in the vast western wilderness of early 1800s America.   Which, by the way, didn’t include hiding yourself in an animal carcass Tauntaun-style to avoid freezing to death.

But what really made the book shine was all of the details speculated on and provided about Glass.   For all of the infamy gained by his tussle with a bear, there was really not a lot I knew about him.   He was really a character who suddenly appeared in Ashley and Henry’s famous 1822 expedition, and then sort of dropped out of the narratives.

The book speculates on Glass’s early life, time as a mariner and pirate – and how he gets his famous rifle.    All of this fantastic narrative was sadly omitted from the movie.    Can you imagine a pirate mountain man movie?  That would have been incredible!

As a historical weapons enthusiast, there’s one scene I really dig on, where Hugh Glass is resupplying at a frontier trading post, after his recovering from the famous bear mauling and crawling his way back to the fringes of civilization.

After choosing between the limited arms available, and the only two rifles – a .32 caliber Kentucky rifle, and a beat-up Model 1803 U.S. Harper’s Ferry rifle, Glass:

 . . . picked up the Model 1803, the same gun carried by many of the soldiers in Lewis and Clarks’ Corps of Discovery.

After choosing the “Harper’s Ferry” Rifle in .53 caliber, Glass gets the rest of his kit.    Punke continues:

They returned to the cabin and Glass picked out the rest of his supplies.   He chose a .53 pistol to complement the rifle.    A ball mold, lead, powder, and flints.     A tomahawk and a large skinning knife.   A thick leather belt to hold his weapons.   Two red cotton shirts to wear beneath the doeskin tunic.   A large Hudson’s Bay capote.   A wool cap and mittens.   Five pounds of salt and three pigtails of tobacco.  Needle and thread.   Cordage.   To carry his newfound bounty, he picked a fringed leather possibles bag with intricate quill beading.    He noticed that the voyageurs all wore small sacks at the waist for their pipe and tobacco.   He took one of those too, a handy spot for his new flint and steel.

Sounds like a pretty good load-out for an AMM event, eh?

Is the book 100% historical accurate?   Of course not, and it doesn’t purport to be.  It’s a just a very well-written, exciting story about how things may have gone down.

I definitely recommend any mountain man or history enthusiasts check this one out.

Whole Camp for Sale – 12×12 Panther Pyramid, Chairs, Blankets, Kitchen Goods, Clothes, and More

Wes Stewart is selling his whole camp and has pictures posted on his website of the items.

The camp includes the following items:

  • Panther primitive 12 x 12 pyramid tent, no mold, no tears, like new
  • Moccasins sz.12/13
  • Leather belt with period buckle
  • Shirt, multi-period kind of a one size affair, hand stitching
  • wool knit fingerless shooting mittens
  • belt carried cartridge bag, + small duffle (pillow sized)
  • Two wool blankets, folding stool
  • trousers fit wide size range, cinch at waist and legs
  • period looking mallet
  • another pair of moccasins, ~womens size 8
  • water skins
  • tent stake bag with many stakes, misc box with mardi gras coins
  • dish dry rack, kitchen box with plates, pots, pans, utensils
  • period looking utensils
  • dutch oven plus container
  • capotes, beaver skin, stockings, canvas fly, and the container
  • 2 solar bags
  • trestle table ~4ft long
  • 3 ladderback chairs
  • 2 not period, but look great in a camp with a canvas cover, Adirondack chairs.
  • fire ring (55 gal barrel)
  • Aerobed inflatable bed, mattress in canvas,period looking, tops the aerobed for great comfort

Pictures of most items are posted up on his site here.

Wes is requesting local pick up only due to size. He’s located 30 miles east of Dallas (Fate, TX), and is not parting out individual items.    He’s asking $1250 or best offer for all.

He can be reached at campsale@stewarthistory.info

Looking to sell a Left-Handed Hawken .54

I received the below notice about a left-handed Hawken gun for sale.  If you are interested, you’re welcome to contact Patrick.

Hello my name is Patrick and I live in San Angelo. The rifle is Italian made and was purchased at Cabelas a few years ago. I’m selling the rifle due the fact that I don’t have the time nor the place to fire the rifle on a regular basis. The rifle was fired approximately 30 times. Many Items come with the rifle. . .

 

The items included with the rifle is as follows, Pyrodex Powder, Measuring Powder Horn, Wad Patches, Shot, Primer Caps, Extra Ramrod, Cleaning Kit & Manuals. Also with the rifle, I’m giving away the 2 half-full antique boxes of 410 shotgun shells shown in the picture… I’m sending what pictures I have, pick out what you need, Thanks Patrick

 

.54 Hawken

He is asking $500 and can be reached at in_nirvana@msn.com

– Many Rifles

Hemp rope resources

I recently grew tired of using the stinky rope they sell at the local hardware stores (also called “sisal rope,” by those in the settlements) in my shelters and was looking for a more period-correct alternative.  Rope is an extra with wedge tents and the like, but is crucial to setting up a good diamond fly or lean-to.   Increasingly, I am going back to my diamond fly days when flying solo at events.

I have heard that hemp rope was more period, but also harder to come by.   It’s also lighter and much stronger.  While searching for the same on the internet, I came across a company that not only offers different diameters of hemp rope, but also hemp webbing and cloth as well.

In addition to their rope, Turkey Creek Trading Company and Forge offers a selection of event and trekking goods – and a good variety of trail foods and dried edibles.

Thinking the breaking load was optimistic (about 3-4 times the strength of sisal rope) I ordered some of their 8mm rope for my diamond fly (803 lbs breaking weight).   Being a fan of spreading shipping fees across multiple items, I also ordered some parched corn for an upcoming pack-in.

The rope arrived and it was dense and extremely strong.  Though it worked great (I could have kept my diamond down in a gale), it was probably overkill.   I am going to order the smaller (6mm – closer to 1/4″, 404 lbs breaking weight), which will pack better and be easier to tie into knots.  They make an even smaller rope at 4mm (3/16″, 215 lbs breaking weight), but I thought this was just too thin . . .

Oh, and the parched corn was great, too.   I am planning on trying out their Salt Cured Bacon at a Fall event, but more on that later.

You can check out their website here

Re-seasoning Cast Iron

I probably should say seasoning cast iron, but when you’ve had an old dutch oven sitting in a shed for the past 3 years, I think it’s more of a re-season.

Back in 2007 when Otter Woman and I were hitching up the wagon to our new encampment, we had quite a few projects that were “in progress” – one of which was an old cast iron dutch oven that we’d recently used at an event. Prior to the move we did our best to remove the petrified remains of my poor attempt at biscuits (fire hardened in the true sense of the word).

About two weeks after our move Little Otter was born and we sort of forgot about the pot. Over the next couple of years we day-tripped into events and the dutch oven slowly migrated around the garage, outside into the shed – and finally onto the back porch where I had to stare my lack of responsibility in the face every time the kids and I went in and out of the house.

To mark my triumphant return to overnight rendezvous’ing, I decided I would clean and re-season that old dutch oven once and for all . . .

Having no idea how to remove 3-year old biscuit carcass, I strolled over to the Interweb and did some searching. I found a few suggestions, blended some ideas and added a few of my own.

Here’s how it worked:

1. Removing the petrified biscuits

I did a few things here – one site recommend a mix of white vinegar and water, so I took a mix of this and with a piece of steel wool, went to town on the rust. As described, it worked out pretty well, but for the old biscuit fossils, I had to get at it with a small crowbar (seriously). After a lot of elbow grease, it finally removed the rock-like dough.

After all of this, I then washed the oven (lid and bottom) with dish soap and water to remove any residue from the operation. I also dried it with a cleaning towel to make sure there was no more water on it.

The dutch oven got a light surface rust immediately after drying, but I figured it would be no big deal after the greasing.

2. Warming the pan

Set the oven to 225 degrees. When the oven is ready, put the dutch oven and lid (separate on a cookie sheet) in the oven for 5 minutes to warm up. When it comes out, it’s plenty warm.

3. First coat of oil

Once the dutch oven was warmed up, I took it out (remember the hot pot holders, she’s warm!) and set the whole mess onto the stove. I took some vegetable oil (am sure bacon grease, or olive oil would probably be fine, too) and coated the whole thing – lid and bottom – and wasn’t shy about it.

After that, let it sit in the hot oven for 30 minutes.

4. Wipe and finish cooking

After 30 minutes, remove the dutch oven from the oven oven and wipe it dry. There may be some pooled oil on the bottom of the dutch oven and the corners of the lid. I used a wad of paper towel to hold each piece up and used another paper towel to dry the dutch oven and re-distribute the oil around it.

When this is done, the dutch oven goes back into the oven oven and cooks for 30 more minutes.

When I finally took the dutch oven out of the oven after the process it looked great. No more rust, no more bad spots – ready to try another attempt at biscuits and peach cobbler.

Even Otter Woman, who is the chief health inspector at our house gave it a passing grade.

Give it a try and you, too can bring back an old dutch oven from the dead!

Townsend’s Traveling Physician

The question invariably comes up about first aid kits for the pack or haversack on period events. Whether or not to carry modern medicine is up to the individual (personal prescriptions are always recommended), but being an EMT, I tend to err on the side of bringing modern medical gear (though hidden in period containers – marked clearly with a red cross).

Jason Townsend and Sons has come up with a period-correct medical kit that is just what the doctor ordered.

Check out the great video below . . .

Late Summer Sale at Historic Angling Enterprises

Just got this email from Claudia about a sale at Historic Angling Enterprises, Paul Jones’ website for period correct tackle from 1400’s to the Mid-1800’s

Here’s the message from Paul:

If interested, I respectfully ask that you take a look at the sale prices on some of my period correct angling items and related goods. The sale ends on September 25, 2009.

www.historicanglingenterprises.com

If you are members of any period reenacting groups or fly tying or other relevant discussion forums, I would appreciate you considering posting and sharing this link. Thank you.

Regards Paul W. Jones

For those of you who’ve met Paul or seen any of his fly-tying or period fishing demonstrations, you know that he really knows his stuff.

This is a good chance to pick up some first-rate, period-correct fishing gear for your haversack or period survival kit.

– Many Rifles